{"id":1705,"date":"2019-09-26T20:39:01","date_gmt":"2019-09-26T20:39:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.letrat.eu\/?p=1705"},"modified":"2024-04-23T00:27:47","modified_gmt":"2024-04-22T23:27:47","slug":"rosa-centifolia-100-petalet-holandeze-dhe-chanel-no-5-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/?p=1705","title":{"rendered":"Rosa Centifolia – “100-petalet holandeze”, dhe Chanel No 5!"},"content":{"rendered":"

S. Guraziu – Ars Poetica, N 2018<\/em><\/p>\n

(…parfumet e reja krijohen ngjash\u00ebm si\u00e7 pikturohet nj\u00eb piktur\u00eb, si\u00e7 kompozohet nj\u00eb simfoni – parfumer\u00ebt i p\u00ebrdorin materialet e tyre nj\u00ebsoj si\u00e7 i p\u00ebrdorin piktor\u00ebt ngjyrat, muzikant\u00ebt notat e veta<\/strong> – M. Edwards)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nGrafika: Tr\u00ebndafili me “100 petale”, Rosa Centifolia, dhe “Fragrance Wheel”, nga Michael Edwards<\/em><\/p>\n

Sot “kryeqyteti bot\u00ebror i parfumeve” ndodhet n\u00eb Franc\u00eb, Evropa sikur i prin artb\u00ebrjes sa u p\u00ebrket aromatikave, n\u00eb mbar\u00eb bot\u00ebn jan\u00eb t\u00eb famshme markat evropiane t\u00eb “fragrancave”. Mir\u00ebpo ekspertiza dhe teknikat thelb\u00ebsore qen\u00eb “importuar”. Gjithsesi me zhvillimet e shkencave t\u00eb Kimis\u00eb dhe t\u00eb tjera, sot n\u00eb industrin\u00eb e parfumeris\u00eb ingredientet sintetike ose artificiale jan\u00eb kapitull n\u00eb vete, p\u00ebrb\u00ebr\u00ebsit sintetik\u00eb jan\u00eb po aq t\u00eb r\u00ebnd\u00ebsish\u00ebm n\u00eb parfumerin\u00eb moderne, dhe formulat laboratorike jan\u00eb t\u00eb pandashme… sinergjike me “formulat” natyrale.<\/p>\n

Kur n\u00eb vitin 1922 arkeolog\u00ebt e hap\u00ebn varrez\u00ebn e Tutankamonit, nj\u00eb nga gj\u00ebrat e “habitshme” ishte nj\u00eb mikstur\u00eb vaji e cila ende ishte aromatike! P\u00ebr arkeolog\u00ebt ishte e qart\u00eb, arti i parfumeris\u00eb n\u00eb Egjiptin e lasht\u00eb ishte aq i sofistikuar. Parfumet dhe vajrat aromatike jan\u00eb p\u00ebrdorur e zhvilluar nga egjiptasit q\u00eb 5000 vjet m\u00eb par\u00eb. Ky zhvillim i aromatikave n\u00eb lugin\u00ebn e Nilit do t’i frym\u00ebzonte dhe kulturat tjera t\u00eb lashta. N\u00eb Greqi atlet\u00ebt e lyenin trupin me vajrash aromatike, n\u00ebp\u00ebr bankete romak\u00ebt rifreskoheshin aty-k\u00ebtu me uj\u00eb t\u00eb aromatizuar me lule.
\nMir\u00ebpo teknik\u00ebn e nxjerrjes s\u00eb vajrave nga lulet p\u00ebrmes distilimit dhe p\u00ebrdorimin e “ingredienteve” ekzotike e zhvilluan persian\u00ebt. Kjo ekspertiz\u00eb u soll n\u00eb Evrop\u00ebn Per\u00ebndimore n\u00eb koh\u00ebn e Kryq\u00ebzatave.<\/p>\n

Ekspert\u00ebt pohojn\u00eb se nuk ka prova shkencore q\u00eb sugjerojn\u00eb se parfumet jan\u00eb “afrodiziak\u00eb” (ose nxit\u00ebs t\u00eb seksulushizmit : ) ndon\u00ebse e qart\u00eb se parfumet jan\u00eb t\u00eb lidhura me seksualitetin ton\u00eb. Derisa sistemi limbik \u00ebsht\u00eb kryesisht i “p\u00ebrkushtuar” ndaj aromatikave, ndikon dhe n\u00eb reagimet hormonale e metabolike, dhe \u00ebsht\u00eb qendra emocionale p\u00ebr d\u00ebshir\u00ebn seksuale, p\u00ebr zem\u00ebrimin, frik\u00ebn, g\u00ebzimin. Kjo \u00ebsht\u00eb arsyeja pse parfumet jan\u00eb nj\u00eb eksperienc\u00eb aq emocionale. Var\u00ebsisht prej ndjenj\u00ebs individuale, por njeriu ia del t’i dalloj\u00eb mes 5000 deri 10.000 nuancash aromatike – pohon Michael Edwards. N\u00eb pyetjen “si krijohet nj\u00eb parfum i ri”, p\u00ebrgjigjen ai e paska nisur duke shtruar pyetje: Si pikturohet nj\u00eb piktur\u00eb, si kompozohet nj\u00eb simfoni? E sigurt \u00ebsht\u00eb se parfumer\u00ebt i p\u00ebrdorin materialet e tyre ngjash\u00ebm si\u00e7 i p\u00ebrdorin piktor\u00ebt ngjyrat, muzikant\u00ebt notat e veta – qenka shprehur.<\/p>\n

***
\n“Rosa Centifolia” \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb varietet i vjet\u00ebr tr\u00ebndafilash shum\u00eb aromatik, tr\u00ebndafil hibrid i zhvilluar nga kultivuesit holandez\u00eb n\u00eb periudh\u00ebn mes shekujve XVII – XIX. Ky tr\u00ebndafil i “holandez\u00ebve” kultivohet p\u00ebr arom\u00ebn e ve\u00e7ant\u00eb – t\u00eb past\u00ebr dhe t\u00eb \u00ebmb\u00ebl, lulet vilen p\u00ebr prodhimin e vajit t\u00eb tr\u00ebndafilit, i cili kryesisht p\u00ebrdoret n\u00eb parfumeri.
\nP\u00ebr kultivimin \u00ebsht\u00eb e njohur Franca, dhe at\u00eb nj\u00eb qytet specifik, i cili qytet e ka reputacionin si “kryeqyteti bot\u00ebror i parfumeve”. Fal\u00eb mikroklim\u00ebs s\u00eb p\u00ebrshtatshme, p\u00ebr kultivimin e “Rosa Centifolia” \u00ebsht\u00eb i njohur qyteti Grasse (jo larg Monaco).<\/p>\n

Shum\u00eb prej prodhuesve t\u00eb m\u00ebdhenj t\u00eb parfumeve, si Hermes, Chanel, Dior etj. furnizohen me l\u00ebnd\u00ebn e par\u00eb tr\u00ebndafileske e jasemineske n\u00eb Grasse. Thuhet se vjelja vjetore e “Rosa Centifolia” n\u00eb Grasse \u00ebsht\u00eb thell\u00ebsisht tradicionale. Un\u00eb vet\u00eb s’kam qen\u00eb n\u00eb Grasse por njeriu mund ta merr me mend “delirin” ajror t\u00eb atjesh\u00ebm, ngopur me molekulat aromatike \ud83d\ude42 P\u00ebr tre jav\u00eb, duke filluar nga fundi i Prillit ose Majit, fushat e tr\u00ebndafilave mbushen me gra e vajza q\u00eb i vjelin lulet nj\u00eb e nga nj\u00eb, me duart buta i shprishin petalet dhe i vendosin but\u00ebsisht n\u00ebp\u00ebr shportat a strajcat e ve\u00e7anta.<\/p>\n

Nga autori M. Edwards m\u00ebsova se Coco Chanel na pask\u00ebsh qen\u00eb i pari t’i inkurajonte prodhuesit e parfumeve t\u00eb orientoheshin rreth parfumeris\u00eb sintetike. Dhe k\u00ebshtu na pask\u00ebsh lindur “Chanel No 5”, parfumi i par\u00eb aldehidik p\u00ebrzier me lulet natyrale, nj\u00eb “buqet\u00eb” dominuese nga notat e buta dhe t\u00eb pastra t\u00eb aldehideve sintetike, p\u00ebrzier me jasemin\u00ebt m\u00eb t\u00eb kushtuesh\u00ebm dhe me tr\u00ebndafilin “Rosa Centifolia” nga Grasse.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

S. Guraziu – Ars Poetica, N 2018 (…parfumet e reja krijohen ngjash\u00ebm si\u00e7 pikturohet nj\u00eb piktur\u00eb, si\u00e7 kompozohet nj\u00eb simfoni – parfumer\u00ebt i p\u00ebrdorin materialet e tyre nj\u00ebsoj si\u00e7 i p\u00ebrdorin piktor\u00ebt ngjyrat, muzikant\u00ebt notat e veta – M. Edwards)… Lexo →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1705","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-komente"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1705","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1705"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1705\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1705"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1705"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/letrat.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1705"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}